Workbench crochet

workbench crochet

cerelace.xyz › Feature Articles. A Crochet??? Is there a pattern out there, somewhere? Thinking about adding one to my new workbench. Attach it to the bench in what way?? Angle. Crochet added. Woodworking Bench Plans, Workbench Plans, Woodworking Shop, Woodworking Projects, Split-Top Roubo Workbench - The Wood Whisperer Guild. COMODO ANTIVIRUS FEATURES OF DRAMA

So you might want to give that stick some more time to adjust. This workbench is made up of five major assemblies that bolt together: two end pieces, two aprons and a top. Each assembly needs some cutting and gluing. Aprons at work. The joinery for this workbench is mostly glue, screws and a few notches. All those joints are in the two end assemblies. Each end assembly consists of two legs made by face-gluing two boards together. By drilling these holes while the pieces are together, you ensure they will mate up again.

If you own clamps, I recommend sprinking a pinch of dry sand on the wet layer of glue between the laminations to prevent the pieces from shifting during the clamping process. Mounting plates. Here is how the mounting plates look when they are installed. First you tighten the bolts, then you screw the mounting plate down. While the glue in the legs is drying, turn your attention to the aprons. With the legs and aprons bolted together, you can glue up the parts for the benchtop.

Like the legs, the front and rear aprons of the workbench are made by face-gluing two parts together to thicken the piece and create notches for the other assemblies. If your bench is longer, make these parts longer. I use aluminum angle pieces for winding sticks.

I also use them as edge guides for my circular saw. Clamp the aluminum angle to your benchtop and make your cut. I used glue and nails to put these parts together. Any combination of glue, screws and nails will do. Once the aprons are assembled, you can then clip the corners of the aprons if you like. The next step is to use the heavy-duty ductile hardware to bolt the legs and aprons together.

Leg up. With the bench temporarily assembled like this, you can fit the pieces between the legs so they match the space available. The clearance hole should go all the way through the apron and leg. The counterbore should be deep enough to hold the head of the bolt, the washer and the lock washer. With the top plate between the legs, you can put each stretcher on with screws skip the glue because this is a cross-grain construction. Now lock the leg and apron together with the hardware.

Thread the bolt through a lock washer and then a washer. Push the bolt through the clearance hole. Spin a ductile mounting plate onto the bolt on the other side. An end, assembled. I know this is an odd construction, but it works. Here you can see the finished end assembly with the lower stretcher ready for trimming and screwing.

Snug up the mounting plate, then tighten the nut with a socket wrench. Once both bolts are snugged up on the leg, you can permanently install the mounting plates with screws. Repeat this process with the other three legs. When you are done you will have two aprons with their legs attached. Flat makes flat. If your bench base is twisted, your benchtop will be twisted. It pays to get all the base bits in the same plane. One of the downsides to many English workbenches is that the top is springy because it is thin or unsupported from below.

These cross members ran between the front apron to the rear apron. And while they do make the benchtop stouter, I have never liked these tops as much as I like a simple thick benchtop. Bench, flatten thyself. Traverse the underside of the benchtop with a jack plane to get the surface fairly true. The top surface of the benchtop is made from 2x12s that have been edge-glued to create a flat panel. Glue up your two planks for your benchtop and cut the top to its finished width and length.

Boring for strength. I put three bolts through each assembly. This keeps things flat. It is easier to first attach the aprons, legs and thin top. Then, once you finish building the end assemblies, you will know the exact size of this second top piece and exactly where it will go without measuring. Face planing. The wedge under the workpiece corner keeps a high corner from rocking.

Edge planing. Here are two positions for edge planing: One board is in the crochet and supported by pegs in holes in the apron and a batten; the other is supported by the benchtop and held against the planing stop. If the pegs are too far apart, place a batten on the pegs and place the edge of your stock upon that. If there are hollows under the board, place wedges in them to keep the board from flexing away from the plane.

If the board tips over, you are not planing with even pressure. End grain can be planed in the same manner, but to avoid splintering, plane almost to the corner, then flip the workpiece and finish planing. Y ou have probably used benches with vises your entire woodworking career. A face vise and tail vise are pretty much the way to go, right?

End grain. A bench hook can be used as a simple shooting board for longer or wider boards; the plane rides on the benchtop. Dovetail chopping. Stacking the parts to be chopped saves the need to reset the holdfast individually for each workpiece. Tenoning can be accomplished with the material in the crochet, angled against a peg and held with a holdfast.

Angle the board away from you and saw the corners, reverse the board to saw the opposite corners, then square across the bottom. Cut the shoulders in the bench hook or at the end of the bench using pegs and a holdfast. Once you get the hang of it, viseless workholding becomes very fast and can be liberating and fun. Many of these techniques are quite useful, even if you have a vise on your bench. I find them useful for the entry-level person on a budget as well as for the seasoned woodworker seeking to expand his or her options.

Dovetail saw cuts. I like to take a scrap of stock the same thickness as the material being dovetailed and put it to one edge of the chop. I place my holdfast just to the inside of the scrap and give it a good whack. This will keep that end of the chop fixed so that I need only to loosen the other holdfast when changing out parts to be worked.

After gluing and screwing the second benchtop piece in place I also clamped things together while the glue dried. This next step ensures that the end assemblies will be the correct size for the width of your top. Assemble the bench upside down on sawbenches.

Clamp the aprons to the top and push things around until the legs are square to the underside of the top and the aprons line up with the top all around. Once you have everything clamped as you like it, you can fit the pieces for the end assemblies that go between the front legs and the back legs.

Cut these pieces to fit. Then wedge the top plate pieces between the legs and screw the stretchers to the legs. With the top stretchers screwed to the legs, you can take the bench apart, then glue and screw the top plates in place. There is a lot of strength to be found there. The last bit of work is to attach the lower stretchers to the legs. These stretchers are in a notch in each leg. Cut the notch with a handsaw and clear the waste with a chisel.

Then screw and glue the lower stretchers into their notches. Apron holes. Many people use wooden pegs in the aprons instead of holdfasts. Both solutions defy gravity just fine. Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 15 of Thread: A Crochet??? A Crochet??? Is there a pattern out there, somewhere? Thinking about adding one to my new workbench.

Attach it to the bench in what way?? Angle between the side of the bench and the crochet? Grain directions?? Two lag screws be enough to hold it?? Wood type?? Couldn't find one when I was out diving dumpsters the other day Google Sponsor Google Sponsor. I put one on my bench when installing my Leg Vise, version 1. I chose a board with grain running on a curve, so that there are no "short" stress lines. I used Cherry, because that's what I had. Were I to build another and I won't, see below I would make it from plywood.

In retrospect, I doubt grain orientation made as much difference as the thickness of the crochet - no sudden forces are involved. Leg Vise 2. Originally Posted by steven c newman. Matthew N. I decided the vise abilities outweigh the crochet, and I have a wagon vise on the right side so the front vise has to be on the left. I agree Matthew. There is no point in a crochet if you have, for example, a leg vise or any other type of face vise.

A crochet is for use with a hold down or some other support. Regards from Perth Derek. Depending on the width of the board a birds mouth works pretty slick for quick work holding. Attached Images image. Steven, what type of bench are you planning on adding this to? I'm curious what your picture is trying to show there. You're going to need a little bit of thickness in your bench top to be able to join the crochet to. Join Date Feb Posts Mark - that is an undeniably useful work-holding concept.

The only shortcoming is that in jointing wide boards, the surface to be jointed would be far too high. This is where the crotchet has the advantage; boards captured by the crotchet and "pinned" against the front face of the bench can be positioned so that the edge to be jointed is at about the same level as the bench top. Mark - I noticed, a little too late, that you addressed this very concern in your opening sentence.

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In these photos, I am fitting the pieces that are ultimately glued and nailed onto the bottom of the benchtop. The photo to the left is a better view of how these pieces fit. In this photo, you can also see here that I screwed the cross pieces down into the side supports so they could be removed. Although not pictured, I did also add seperate pieces to the benchtop — outside of the legs.

Next, I fitted the bench top and planed the edges to align with the sides. Finally, I planed the top to be flat. Once the top was mounted, I layed out the holdfast holes and drilled them with a brace. Finally, I drilled and chiseled the plane stops. The final picture shows the bench before it was finished. It also appears to only have one plane stop completed.

You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Blog at WordPress. Follow: RSS Twitter. Stuff I do with Wood. Home About Workbench. Workbench This page has photos from building my Nicholson inspired workbench.

A couple of interesting features regarding the bench It was built to be used from either side note the plane stop on each side. Frame The stretchers are installed with draw-bored mortise and tenon joints. Sides These photos show the frame with the sides attached. Cross Pieces Fitting the cross pieces.

In this photo, you can also see here that I screwed the cross pieces down into the side supports so they could be removed Although not pictured, I did also add seperate pieces to the benchtop — outside of the legs. Like this: Like Loading Leave a Reply Cancel reply Enter your comment here Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:. Email required Address never made public. Name required. By continuing to use this website, you agree to their use. To find out more, including how to control cookies, see here: Cookie Policy.

Follow Following. Sign me up. They are used, with a peg, to support from below long boards, drawers, panels and etc. Right…I just wondered why that pattern, and why so many. I trust that this is the right way to do it, I just wonder how that became the pattern. After building a couple of thse benches, I suspect the diagonal pattern allows the the pegs to hold more weight than if the holes were arranged vertically only.

And the diagonal pattern allows for easy layout of the holes on the sideboard. Very interesting bench. Bob Rozaieski had built one quite a bit like that on his now defunct Logan Cabinet Shop site. Bob is a proponent for hand tools only and he claimed it suited his needs.

With only hold fasts and the bench hook it looks to fill most bench needs. I enjoy drinking beer and seeing how many turns of the wheel it takes to close with one spin. Good times. Very timely, I am going to build a Nicholson bench very soon need to finish my Dutch Tool Chest first. I think I am just going to go with a crochet instead of a face vice. I built a joinery bench not very long ago that takes care of my joinery needs.

I do have a question, though. If the top of this bench is made with 2x material, does it require additional thickness so that holdfasts will work properly? I figure leftover 1x material from the aprons would suffice? Any word on when that might be? Peter Nicholson, definitely not naked. Like this: Like Loading These are just guesses. I think the pattern looks nice. Put two long 2x4s over the end stretchers. Nail the shelf boards to that.

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