Table saw and chop saw workbench

table saw and chop saw workbench

Shop Our Range of Benchtop Tools: Track Saw, Miter Saw, Table Saw, Flooring Saw and more! On the second cart, we customized it to hold a table saw. When not in use, it just is a flat surface, but when in use, the tablesaw deck is significantly larger. Oct 14, - #easy #mobile Quick and easy mobile workstation with table saw and miter saw platforms #antique woodworking bench #Easy #miter #mobile #quick. REMOTEACCESS WIN32 ULTRAVNC

After all of that ripping and cutting, my dust collector had definitely gotten full, and I wanted to give a quick shout out to this new wall mounted dust collector from Rockler. This thing is capable of pulling CFM, which is plenty for most shop tools, and this optional canister filter really does a great job of keeping the fine dust down.

Anyway, after the glue dried on the legs, I could trim them to final width at the table saw, and as you can see, by leaving the legs oversized, I ended up with super clean edges. I also used the same trick for the bottommost piece on the legs, so I could trim the bottom end of the leg flush after the glue up, which I did at the miter saw. Now, as I mentioned, I did need to cut a few half laps, exactly one in each leg, so next I laid out the location for those cuts.

I referenced the other legs for these measurements, which ensured that my stretchers ended up square to the legs. To do this, I set the built-in depth stop on this sliding miter saw equal to the thickness of my stretcher pieces. Most sliding miter saws have this kind of depth stop feature, and this actually worked better than I expected. To cut across the entire face of the legs, I needed to space them off of the fence, which I accomplished by adding a few scraps between the fence and the legs, and then it was just a matter of cutting to my lines and clearing out the waste.

When I got the bulk of the half lap cleared out, I ran the leg horizontally across the bed of the miter saw, which is a potentially dangerous technique. I test fit my offcut and found the half lap needed to be a smidge wider and, after making another pass, I ended up with a great fit. I just repeated the same process on the other three legs, and I ended up lowering my depth stop just a bit, to make sure my stretchers were totally flush with the legs. I also found that I needed more distance from the fence to get an even depth across the entire half lap, so I just laid the scrap spacers down and this worked great.

After cutting all of the half laps, there was one last bit of joinery left on the legs, and that was notching the top of the two front legs to fit inside the apron of the top, which I did with my pull saw. As I mentioned, the front legs are oriented differently than the back legs, hence the need for this notch. As you can see, that notch allowed the front legs, which are to the left in this shot, to end up flush with the front apron of the workbench. Next, I laid out locations for the screws that would attach the legs to the apron, and I made sure to pre-drill and countersink holes in these locations so I could plug them later.

I also made sure to check for square when attaching the legs, and I added the stretchers before the glue fully set to help with this. Speaking of which, next I could get the stretchers installed, and they got the same countersink treatment. I added the long stretchers last, which were a little awkward as the half laps were pretty tight, but I eventually got them installed and this thing was really starting to look like a workbench.

Next, I needed to add more framing, this time for the bottom shelf. I spaced the framing a little further apart here and used a scrap block clamped to the stretchers to help make sure the framing ended up flush to the stretchers. With the bottom framing in, I could finally flip the workbench over and, let me tell you, this thing is solid. It already weighed quite a bit at this point, and I still had a ton more stuff to add to the bench.

Before flipping the bench over entirely, I drilled a few holes through the top to give myself a visual reference of where I could safely cut out the area where the miter saw platform would end up. With that done, I flipped the bench the rest of the way and checked the top for flatness with a level and I was honestly surprised at just how flat it ended up. I also had to just set my miter saw in place to see how it looked, and it fit great.

These pieces were actually leftover from my home theater build I did a few months ago, hence the random assortment of pieces I used here. After adding the plywood, I also added some vertical supports that will help keep the center of the top from sagging over time. Rather than trying to notch out the legs, I again just glued up separate pieces to create my joinery here, which worked really well. Basically, I wanted this notched section to kind of straddle the center piece of the bottom framing, to provide more support plenty of glue surface.

To install the center legs, I just added plenty of glue and clamped the leg in place while the glue dried. Next, I started working on the miter saw platform. The first step was to remove that plywood where the platform would be mounted, which I did with a combination of a jigsaw followed by a flush trim bit on my trim router. The holes I had drilled in the top before flipping the workbench definitely came in handy when cutting this section with the jigsaw , and then the router got everything nice and tidy.

Next, I ripped down that cutout from the top into some strips, which I used as the framing of the platform. To assemble this structure, I once again called on pocket holes , of course forgetting to change the setting on my pocket hole jig before drilling the first set of holes. Once again, regular butt joints would have been fine here, but I wanted to hide the screw holes. Once the glue had a chance to dry, I went ahead and chamfered the edges of the platform, just to soften things up, and I went ahead and sanded this front section of the workbench and chamfered the areas near the miter saw platform while I was at it.

Speaking of which, next I could get the miter saw platform installed. I initially installed the miter saw platform flush with the top, and I installed the hinges with that in mind. After installing the hinges, I rested the platform on the hinges and clamped the platform flush with the workbench top, adding a few spacers at the back for clearance, and then I attached the other half of the hinges to the platform.

As you can see, this all worked out really well and the platform ended up perfectly in line with the workbench top. There might be other options out there that would work better but, again, I was using hardware I had on hand.

The next bit of hardware to install was some kind of locking mechanism, to keep the platform securely in place while in the upright position. I mounted the latch to the front of the workbench, so that the barrel would end up roughly centered on the side of the platform, and then I marked out where the barrel contacted the platform.

This hole size resulted in a pretty tight fit, so I reamed it out a bit more, and, after that, the dropdown mechanism was functional and working great. The reason for this is the way in which the sliding mechanism works on this Festool Kapex miter saw, with the rails oriented towards the front of the saw, rather than to the rear like on most miter saws, including the Dewalt saw I was using previously here.

Having this shallower overall depth frees up a ton of room on the rest of the workbench surface and is definitely a major consideration when picking a miter saw for a workbench like this. Because of that, I decided to change out my hinges and actually mount the hinges to the vertical supports, so I could have the miter saw platform much lower. These eye screws were a major improvement to this system, as they were much easier to engage the latch through since the hole was oversized, and the fact that the eye screws thread into the platform meant that I could make fine adjustments to the position of the platform by threading the eye screw in or out.

This will also be helpful if I ever need to remove the saw for use in the future. Next, I needed to work on some supports for the miter fence mounts , which would need to extend past the front of the workbench. Again, I was originally going to use a different mount with the miter saw in its original higher orientation, so these mounting blocks were a bit of an audible and might be adjusted if needed later on. My plan is to eventually attach these with threaded inserts, so I can easily remove the mounts if I need to use the entire workbench top, but I just mounted them initially with more Powerhead screws.

As you can see, the fence just drops onto these mounts and then locks into place with a locking pin, which you can drill a hole for anywhere on the fence. This will ensure that the fence is reinstalled in the exact same location each time, which will keep the stop block system accurate even after removing and reinstalling the fence. Speaking of the stop block system, next I needed to set a new zero point on the stop block, which is super simple with this system.

I just set the stop block to zero and made a new cut with the miter saw, which sizes the stop block perfectly to this saw. There are many benefits of creating a workbench like this, and many are listed with the plans, but which one did the author choose as the first and most important? That it looks amazing!

Having an attractive and functional workbench at home will make all your DIY projects so much easier. You will have somewhere to work, you will be able to store tools safely out of the way and you will have a focus for everything you do. The thing is, if you buy a workbench ready-made, it can be an expensive acquisition — but if you are an adept DIYer, you can simply make one for yourself. To be honest, the instructions are a little bit lacking, but you could take this on as something of a challenge.

This is a very simple design for a workbench on which to place your table saw that also offers you somewhere to store your wood. There are lots of useful photos on there — with all the measurements included — to make this plan as easy to follow as possible.

Have fun! One of the problems with any power tools — and particularly ones like table saws — is that they can be heavy and a hassle to move about. So why not give it a go? At the other end of the scale from 7, here we have the plans for an all-singing-all-dancing modular workbench that will help maximize the space you have in your workshop.

This is a big project, but there are extensive instructions with this plan — so if you want to tackle something a bit more challenging and you have plenty of time to spare, this is a design that should be of interest. In it, you can see a new YouTuber presenting his very first woodworking video. This 3-in-1 multipurpose workbench is one of our all-time favorites.

Before you attempt this bench, take a moment to watch the embedded video — as you will hear, this woodworker took a whole month to design and build this workbench.

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